{"id":14277,"date":"2010-11-04T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2010-11-04T00:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/montanismo.org\/revista\/?p=14277"},"modified":"2012-03-19T17:57:00","modified_gmt":"2012-03-19T23:57:00","slug":"adios_a_joe_puryear","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/montanismo.org\/2010\/adios_a_joe_puryear\/","title":{"rendered":"Adi\u00f3s a Joe Puryear"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><script language=\"javascript\">function imgGrandeChica_old(nombreImagen, formato, ancho, alto){\tdocument.write('<a href=\"javascript:;\" onClick=\"window.open(\\'..\/images\/upload\/'+nombreImagen+'_g.'+formato+'\\',\\'nombreImagen\\',\\'width='+ancho+', height='+alto+'\\')\"> <img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/montanismo.org\/images\/upload\/'+nombreImagen+'_k.'+formato+'\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a>')\t}<\/script><\/p>\n<div align=\"justify\">\n<p>El mi&eacute;rcoles 27 de octubre,  David Puryear y David Gottlieb finalmente comenzaron a escalar una nueva ruta  en el Labuche Kang, en el Himalaya. Como de costumbre, ambos hab&iacute;an elegido una  ruta nueva en una monta&ntilde;a no escalada o poco conocida. Himalayismo de  exploraci&oacute;n, el m&aacute;s alto rango en el monta&ntilde;ismo con valores propios y muy  lejano de las exploraciones comerciales o repetitivas que son tan comunes en  los ochomiles y que se pregona en los medios masivos de comunicaci&oacute;n.<\/p>\n<p align=\"center\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" width=\"480\" height=\"360\" border=\"0\" align=\"middle\" src=\"http:\/\/montanismo.org\/images\/upload\/kang_nachugo07.jpg\" alt=\"\" \/><\/p>\n<p align=\"center\"><em>Joe en la cumbre del Kang Nachugo.<\/em><\/p>\n<p>Joe y David no buscaron eso.  Eran monta&ntilde;istas y sab&iacute;an lo que deb&iacute;a hacerse para hacer un buen monta&ntilde;ista.  Lo buscaron en <em>The angry wife<\/em>, en el <em>Peak 5965<\/em>, en el <em>Lara Shan<\/em>, en el <em>Kang Nachugo<\/em>,  en el <em>Dagou<\/em>, en el <em>Takargo<\/em>, en el <em>Latok<\/em>, en el <em>Denali<\/em>&hellip; en  todas las monta&ntilde;as que les llamaban la atenci&oacute;n y que no mostraban una v&iacute;a  previa de ascenso. Muchas veces dieron marcha atr&aacute;s. Otras lo consiguieron,  pero nunca dejaron de ir por ese objetivo: explorar en la alta monta&ntilde;a.<\/p>\n<p>Su &uacute;ltimo objetivo fue el  Labuche Kang (7,367 metros), en el T&iacute;bet.<\/p>\n<p align=\"center\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" width=\"480\" height=\"124\" border=\"0\" align=\"middle\" src=\"http:\/\/montanismo.org\/images\/upload\/3166-joepuryear1.jpg\" alt=\"\" \/><\/p>\n<p>&ldquo;Para nuestra pr&oacute;xima  aventura exploraremos el remoto macizo del Labuche Kang, en el T&iacute;bet. La  cordillera tiene como centro al Labuche Kang (7,367 metros, 24,170 pies), que  ha sido ascendido una sola vez ppor le Arista Oeste en 1987 por una expedici&oacute;n  Tibetana-Japonesa. Alrededor hay algunos picos de siete y seis mil metros,  muchos de ellos inescalados. Esta poco conocida cordillera s&oacute;lo tiene tres  expediciones documentadas&rdquo;, comentaba Joe en septiembre.<\/p>\n<p>A fines de ese mes, tras &ldquo;vencer  un obst&aacute;culo m&aacute;s para alcanzar la monta&ntilde;a&rdquo; (obtener la visa de China) llegaron  a su campo base y pudieron realizar varios viajes de exploraci&oacute;n para  determinar su ruta. Pero despu&eacute;s, el mal tiempo se les vino encima y su p&aacute;gina  habla de d&iacute;as de tormenta, de nieve, de estar quietos en el campo base.<\/p>\n<p>&ldquo;El mi&eacute;rcoles 27 de octubre,  David y Joe comenzaron su ruta en el Labuche Kang. Finalmente era un d&iacute;a claro  y hermoso. Joe estaba muy emocionado por la escalada y &eacute;l y David salieron. Estaban  ascendiendo en el principio de la ruta sobre una arista y Joe fue por delante  para explorar la v&iacute;a. David dijo que Joe sonre&iacute;a, mir&oacute; hacia atr&aacute;s y levant&oacute;  los pulgares. Joe dio la vuelta a una roca y desapareci&oacute; de su vista&rdquo;. Ser&iacute;a la  &uacute;ltima vez que lo vieran con vida. Joe cay&oacute; al pisar una cornisa.<\/p>\n<p align=\"center\"> <script language=\"javascript\">\timgGrandeChica('JoboRinjang13', 'jpg',620,820)<\/script> <\/p>\n<p align=\"center\"><em>En el Jobo Rinjang<\/em><\/p>\n<p>Su ahora viuda, actualiz&oacute; su  sitio web con los hechos y con dolor:<\/p>\n<p>&ldquo;Para Joe, mi mejor amigo,  amante y marido: has hecho del mundo un lugar hermoso no s&oacute;lo para m&iacute; sino para  cada persona cuyas vidas tocaste. Soy la mujer m&aacute;s afortunada al haber pasado  contigo los &uacute;ltimos diez a&ntilde;os de mi vida, compartiendo tus aventuras. He  experimentado la felicidad y el amor m&aacute;s grandes que cualquiera pudiera  esperar, especialmente este &uacute;ltimo a&ntilde;o. Te tengo siempre en mi mente como  eternamente hermoso, con una enorme sonrisa y tus pulgares hacia arriba.&rdquo;<\/p>\n<p>David pudo descender los 700  pies (200 metros) y dijo que Joe hab&iacute;a muerto al caer y no hab&iacute;a sufrido.<\/p>\n<p>&ldquo;David est&aacute; devastado, pero  fuerte y saludable. Ha regresado al campo base y est&aacute; esperando la ayuda de  Global Rescue. En las &uacute;ltimas 24 horas la noticia de este evento ha circulado  [en todo el mundo] y causado un desbordamiento de amor, respeto y admiraci&oacute;n por  una persona maravillosa que vivi&oacute; su vida al m&aacute;ximo en todos los aspectos, sea  en trabajo, familia, diversi&oacute;n o escalada.&rdquo;<\/p>\n<p align=\"center\"> <script language=\"javascript\">\timgGrandeChica('takargo06', 'jpg',820,620)<\/script> <\/p>\n<p align=\"center\"><em>En el Takargo<\/em><\/p>\n<p>Joe Puryear,  quien junto con David Gottlieb nos estaba llevando a vivir una experiencia  intensa en el monta&ntilde;ismo, ha muerto. La comunidad monta&ntilde;ista internacional se  ha unido rendirle homenaje: algunos con poemas, con donativos La familia pide  que cualquier comentario se haga en el <a href=\"http:\/\/www.facebook.com\/JoePuryear\" target=\"_blank\">Facebook de Joe<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>La siguiente poes&iacute;a la escribi&oacute; Dave Allen en memoria de Joe:<\/p>\n<table width=\"100%\" align=\"center\">\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"49%\" valign=\"top\" bgcolor=\"#fefbf5\" style=\"border: 2px solid rgb(243, 242, 203);\">\n<p><strong>Climbers<\/strong><\/p>\n<p align=\"left\">Mountains are the seeds of our  souls.            Their faces and ridges help us grow.            Their shadows entice us to seek  their secrets.<\/p>\n<p align=\"left\">They offer themselves benignly and  take the same.            It is only we who claim victory and  suffer sorrow.<\/p>\n<p align=\"left\">And we always will.<\/p>\n<p align=\"left\">Because our souls are the seeds            That make mountains grow.<\/p>\n<p align=\"left\">And they always will.<\/p>\n<\/td>\n<td width=\"2%\" bgcolor=\"#fefbf5\" style=\"border: 2px solid rgb(243, 242, 203);\">&nbsp;<\/td>\n<td width=\"49%\" valign=\"top\" bgcolor=\"#fefbf5\" style=\"border: 2px solid rgb(243, 242, 203);\">\n<p><strong>Escaladores<\/strong><\/p>\n<p align=\"left\">Las monta&ntilde;as son las semillas de nuestras  vidas.            Sus caras y aristas nos ayudan a crecer.            Sus sombras nos incitan a buscar sus secretos.<\/p>\n<p align=\"left\">          Se ofrecen benignamente y toman lo mismo            S&oacute;lo nosotros cantamos victoria y sufrimos  dolor<\/p>\n<p align=\"left\">Y siempre lo haremos<\/p>\n<p align=\"left\">Porque nuestras almas son las semillas            Que hacen crecer a las monta&ntilde;as<\/p>\n<p align=\"left\">Y siempre lo har&aacute;n.<\/p>\n<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<p align=\"center\"><iframe loading=\"lazy\" width=\"480\" scrolling=\"no\" height=\"350\" frameborder=\"0\" marginheight=\"0\" marginwidth=\"0\" src=\"http:\/\/maps.google.com\/maps?f=q&amp;source=s_q&amp;hl=es&amp;geocode=&amp;q=Lobuche+Kang,+Labujikang,+Shigatse,+Tibet,+China&amp;sll=29.506549,90.340576&amp;sspn=7.053278,8.811035&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;hq=&amp;hnear=Lapche+Kang+I&amp;t=h&amp;ll=28.303776,86.343269&amp;spn=0.105797,0.164795&amp;z=12&amp;output=embed\"><\/iframe>\n<\/p>\n<p align=\"center\"><small><a href=\"http:\/\/maps.google.com\/maps?f=q&amp;source=embed&amp;hl=es&amp;geocode=&amp;q=Lobuche+Kang,+Labujikang,+Shigatse,+Tibet,+China&amp;sll=29.506549,90.340576&amp;sspn=7.053278,8.811035&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;hq=&amp;hnear=Lapche+Kang+I&amp;t=h&amp;ll=28.303776,86.343269&amp;spn=0.105797,0.164795&amp;z=12\" style=\"color: rgb(0, 0, 255); text-align: center;\">Ver Lobuche Kang en mapa m&aacute;s grande<\/a><\/small><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<p><!--nextpage--><\/p>\n<div align=\"justify\">\n<p align=\"center\"><strong>Resumen completo de las escaladas de Joe  Puryear(Tomado de Supertopo.com)<\/strong><\/p>\n<p align=\"center\"><strong>Am&eacute;rica del Norte<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>Alaska<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>  Mt. Barrill (7,650 ft.),    <\/li>\n<li>Cobra Pillar (6\/2004), VI 5.11a A2, 27 largos; ascenso de velocidad: 15h 10m    <\/li>\n<li>Couloir Japon&eacute;s (4\/2004), III 50o, 900 m    <\/li>\n<li>Mt. Brooks (11,940 ft.), North Ridge (7\/2008), III 50o 2000m    <\/li>\n<li>Mt. Crosson (12,800 ft.), Southeast Ridge (6\/2000), III 50o, 1800 m    <\/li>\n<li>Mt. Dan Beard (10,260 ft.), Southwest Route (4\/2004), V 5.5 60o, 1200 m    <\/li>\n<li>Denali (20,320 ft.),    <\/li>\n<li>Cassin Ridge (6\/2000), Alaska Grade 5 5.8 65o, 50 pitches, 2700 m    <\/li>\n<li>South Buttress &ndash; West Buttress Traverse (4\/1996), Alaska Grade 3 55o, 4400 m    <\/li>\n<li>Mt. Dickey (9,545 ft.), Southwest Ridge (4\/2000), III 45o, 1500 m    <\/li>\n<li>Eye Tooth (9,000 ft.), West Pillar (6\/2004), V 5.10c, 27 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Pt. Farine (9,300 ft.), East Ridge, solo (6\/2001), II 45o, 500 m    <\/li>\n<li>Mt. Frances (10,450 ft.),    <\/li>\n<li>East Ridge (5\/2001), III 45o, 900m; 2 ascents    <\/li>\n<li>Southwest Ridge (5\/2004), IV 5.8 50o, 1100m    <\/li>\n<li>Mt. Foraker (17,400 ft.),    <\/li>\n<li>Infinite Spur (6\/2001), Alaska Grade 6 5.9 M5, 65 pitches, 2700 m    <\/li>\n<li>Sultana Ridge (6\/2000), Alaska Grade 3 45o, 3100 m    <\/li>\n<li>Mt. Hunter (14,570 ft.), West Ridge (4\/1999), Alaska Grade 4 5.7 55o, 2400 m    <\/li>\n<li>Mt. Huntington (12,240 ft.), Harvard Route w\/ first ascent variation (5\/2000),  VI 5.9 A2 80o, 1200m    <\/li>\n<li>Hut Tower (6000 ft.), Southwest Face (6\/2002), IV 5.10c, 10 pitches; 2 ascents    <\/li>\n<li>Kahiltna Dome (12,525 ft.), Northeast Ridge (6\/2001), II 40o, 600 m    <\/li>\n<li>Kahiltna Queen (12,380 ft.), West Face (5\/2000), IV 65o, 18 pitches, 900 m; 2  ascents    <\/li>\n<li>Kichatna Spire (9,985 ft.), The Black Crystal Ar&ecirc;te, first ascent (7\/2005), VI  5.10 A2, 900 m    <\/li>\n<li>Middle Troll (6,900 ft.), West Face (7\/2004), III 5.8, 8 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Mini-Moonflower (10,600 ft.), North Couloir (5\/2004), IV 85o, 14 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Mooses Tooth (10,300 ft.),    <\/li>\n<li>Ham and Eggs (4\/2003), V 5.9 AI4, 20 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Shaken Not Stirred (5\/2003), V AI5, 18 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>The Radio Control Tower (8,670ft.), South Face (5\/2001), II, 5.0 55o, 300 m    <\/li>\n<li>Mt. Silverthrone (13,220 ft.), West Face, first ascent (4\/1997), III 65o, 1700  m    <\/li>\n<li>South Troll (6,900 ft.), South Ridge (7\/2004), III 5.8, 8 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>The Stump (6,600 ft.), South Face, Goldfinger, first ascent (6\/2004), IV 5.11a,  12 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>The Throne (7,390 ft.), South Face (7\/2004), III 5.8, 10 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Pt. 8,240 ft., East Ridge, solo (6\/2001), II 45o, 600 m    <\/li>\n<li>Peak 11,300 ft., Southwest Ridge (4\/2004), V 5.8 60o, 1200 m    <\/li>\n<li>Peak 12,200 ft.,    <\/li>\n<li>East Ridge &ndash; Southwest Face traverse (4\/1995), IV 50o, 1500 m    <\/li>\n<li>South Face (5\/2004), III 5.5 50o, 1200 m<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Bugaboos<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>  Bugaboo Spire (10,250 ft.), Northeast Ridge (8\/2003), IV 5.7, 10 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Pigeon Spire (10,215 ft.),    <\/li>\n<li>East Face (8\/2003), V 5.10, 18 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>West Ridge, solo (8\/2003), II 5.4    <\/li>\n<li>Snowpatch Spire (10,050 ft.),    <\/li>\n<li>Furry Pink (8\/2003), IV 5.10c, 8 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Krause-McCarthy (8\/2003), IV 5.8, 6 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Southeast Ridge (8\/2003), IV 5.6, 16 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Southwest Corner Direct (8\/2003), III 5.10a, 7 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Wildflowers (8\/2003), IV 5.9, 9 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>South Howser Spire (10,850 ft.), Becky-Chouinard (8\/2003), V 5.9, 18 pitches<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Cascade Mountains<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>  Mt. Adams (12,276 ft.), South Route (8\/1998), 5 ascents    <\/li>\n<li>Argonaut Peak (8,453 ft.),    <\/li>\n<li>Northeast Buttress (6\/1998), II 5.8, 8 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>West Ridge, solo (9\/2002), II 5.5, 5 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Mt. Baker (10,788 ft.), North Ridge (7\/1994), III+ 70o, 1000 m    <\/li>\n<li>Mt. Baring (6,125 ft.), North Face (7\/2007), V 5.10c, 20 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Bear Mountain (7,942 ft.), Direct North Buttress (8\/1999), V 5.10c, 25 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Burgundy Spire (8,400 ft.), North Face (6\/1996), III 5.8, 6 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Chair Peak (6,238 ft.),    <\/li>\n<li>East Face (5\/1994), III 5.6, 6 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>North Face (2\/1994), III 65o, 4 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Northeast Buttress (3\/1994), III 65o, 5 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>West Face (1\/1995), III 60o, 6 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Mt. Challenger (8,236 ft.), Challenger Glacier (8\/2005), II 5.7    <\/li>\n<li>Chianti Spire (8,400 ft.), East Face (7\/1996), III 5.10, 7 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Colchuck Balanced Rock (8,200 ft.), West Face (8\/1997), IV 5.11 C1, 12 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Colchuck Peak (8,705 ft.),    <\/li>\n<li>Colchuck Glacier (7\/1997), II class 3 40o    <\/li>\n<li>Northeast Buttress (7\/1997), IV 5.8, 20 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>North Buttress Couloir, solo (4\/1994), III 65o, 10 pitches, 2 ascents    <\/li>\n<li>Copper Mountain (6,280 ft.), East Face Couloir (2\/1994), II 60o, 4 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Crystal Lake Tower (7,800 ft.), Southwest Ar&ecirc;te (7\/1999), III 5.8, 15 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Cutthroat Peak (8,050 ft.), South Buttress (8\/1998), III 5.8, 10 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Double Peak (6,199 ft.), East Face, first ascent (6\/1997), III 5.10b, 6 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Dragontail Peak (8,840 ft.),    <\/li>\n<li>Backbone Ridge (9\/1995), IV 5.9, 18 pitches (2 ascents)    <\/li>\n<li>Boving Route (8\/1998), IV 5.10c, 14 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Dragonfly (8\/2006), IV 5.11, 12 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>North Face (7\/1999), IV 5.8, 28 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Northeast Ar&ecirc;te (6\/1998), III 5.8, 10 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Northeast Buttress (6\/1998), IV 5.8, 20 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>North-northeast Ar&ecirc;te (7\/1998) III 5.8, 8 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Serpentine Ar&ecirc;te (7\/1994), IV 5.8, 16 pitches; 3 ascents    <\/li>\n<li>Triple Couloir (3\/1995), IV 5.8 70o, 20+ pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Eagle Peak (5,958 ft.), East Slabs, first ascent (8\/2003), III 5.7, 8 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Early Morning Spire (8,200 ft.), Thin Black Line (7\/1996), III+ 5.9, 13 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Eldorado Peak (8,868 ft.),    <\/li>\n<li>East Ridge (7\/2007)    <\/li>\n<li>West Ar&ecirc;te (7\/2009), IV 5.8, 2,800 ft.    <\/li>\n<li>Enchantment Peak, Acid Baby (7\/2010), III 5.10+, 8 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Mt. Fernow (9.249 ft.), South Route (7\/2007)    <\/li>\n<li>Forbidden Peak (8,815 ft.),    <\/li>\n<li>East Ridge Direct (7\/1996), III 5.8, 10 pitches     <\/li>\n<li>West Ridge (5\/1994), III 5.6, 10 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Mt. Garfield (5,119 ft.), Infinite Bliss (8\/2006), IV 5.10c, 23 pitches, 2  ascents    <\/li>\n<li>Mt. Goode (9,200 ft.),    <\/li>\n<li>Northwest Buttress (5\/1995), III 5.8, 8 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Northeast Buttress (7\/2009), III 5.5, 2,800 ft.    <\/li>\n<li>Goat Wall,    <\/li>\n<li>Sisyphus (6\/2006), III 5.11a, 10 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Prime Rib (6\/2007), III 5.9, 11 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Restless Natives (6\/2006), III 5.11b, 11 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Goose Egg Mountain (4,566 ft.),    <\/li>\n<li>Bowl Packer, first ascent (11\/2002), III 5.11c, 5 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>The Commandho Pillar, first ascent (3\/2002), III 5.11b, 7 pitches; 3 ascents    <\/li>\n<li>Dirty Sanchez, first ascent (3\/2002), III 5.9, 8 pitches; 4 ascents    <\/li>\n<li>Ignorant Bliss, first ascent (11\/2002), III 5.10c, 6 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Ride the Lightning, first ascent (10\/2001), first winter ascent (2\/2002), III  5.9, 7 pitches; 6 ascents    <\/li>\n<li>Shock and Awe, first ascent (4\/2003), III 5.10c, 7 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Southeast Ar&ecirc;te, first winter ascent (2\/2002), III 5.10d, 7 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Spoil Ill, first ascent (7\/2010), III 5,10c, 6 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Notable speed ascents: Ride the Lightning in 56 minutes; 1:33 round trip.    <\/li>\n<li>Dirty Sanchez in 16 minutes; 31 minutes round trip.    <\/li>\n<li>Green Giant Buttress (3,084 ft.),    <\/li>\n<li>Dreamer (7\/1996), IV 5.9, 10 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Safe Sex (8\/2009), IV 5.9, 9 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Mt. Hood (11,235 ft.), South Route (6\/1993), II 40o    <\/li>\n<li>Mt. Index (5,967 ft.), North Peak to Main Peak Traverse (7\/2003), V 5.7, c. 35  pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Index Upper Town Wall (2,400 ft.),    <\/li>\n<li>Davis&ndash;Holland Route (6\/1995), III 5.10c, 6 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>The Green Dragon, solo (6\/1997), IV C2+, 5 pitches; 2 ascents    <\/li>\n<li>Town Crier, solo (6\/1997), IV 5.8 C2, 7 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Ingalls Peak, North Peak (7,662 ft.), South Face (7\/2007), II 5.6, 4 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Inspiration Peak (7,880 ft.), East Ridge (8\/2010), IV 5.9, 10 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Johannesburg Mountain (8,200 ft.), North Rib (8\/2007), IV 5.6 45o, 4,000 feet    <\/li>\n<li>Juno Tower (7,920 ft.), Clean Break (7\/1998), IV 5.10b, 10 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Kloochman Rock (4,532 ft.),    <\/li>\n<li>North Summit Tower, North Face, first ascent (4\/2001), III 5.7, 8 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>South Ridge, first ascent (4\/2001), II 5.6R, 4 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Tower One, Northeast Ar&ecirc;te, first ascent (9\/2002), III 5.11a, 6 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Tower One, Northeast Ramps, first ascent (4\/2001), II 5.7R, 5 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Tower Two, South Face (10\/2000), II 5.6, 3 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Tower Three, North Face, first ascent (4\/2001), II 5.9R, 5 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>T.A.C., first ascent (4\/2001), IV 5.8R, 18 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>West Face, first ascent (4\/2000), II 5.6R, 4 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>West Ramps, solo (10\/2001), II 5.5, 4 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Xirtamartlu, first ascent (4\/2001), IV 5.9R\/X, 26 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Lexington Tower (7,560 ft.), East Face (6\/1996), III+ 5.9, 9 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Liberty Bell (7,720 ft.),    <\/li>\n<li>Barber Pole Route (6\/2007), III 5.8, 9 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Becky Route (6\/1994), II 5.6, 4 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Liberty Crack (6\/1997), V 5.10 A2, 12 pitches; 2 ascents    <\/li>\n<li>Overexposure (6\/1994), II 5.8, 4 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Thin Red Line (8\/1998), V 5.9 A3, 12 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Little Annapurna (8,440 ft.), South Face (6\/1998), II 5.8, 6 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Little Tahoma (11,138 ft.), East Route, solo (6\/1997), II 45o    <\/li>\n<li>McClellan Peak (8,364 ft.), West Ridge including four of the Chessmen (7\/1998),  II 5.7, 4 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Minuteman Tower (7,000 ft.) ,East Face (8\/1998), III 5.10a, 5 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>North Early Winter Spire (7,760 ft.),    <\/li>\n<li>Northwest Corner (7\/1996), III 5.9, 6 pitches, 2 ascents    <\/li>\n<li>West Face (8\/1996), III 5.11a, 6 pitches, 2 ascents    <\/li>\n<li>Pennant Peak and the Flagpole (8,080 ft.), East Face (7\/1999), III 5.6 C2, 5  pitches, 400m    <\/li>\n<li>Prusik Peak (8,000 ft.),    <\/li>\n<li>South Face (Bergner-Stanley) (1996), III 5.9+, 5 pitches; 2 ascents    <\/li>\n<li>South Face (Beckey-Davis) (8\/2009), III 5.10a, 5 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>West Ridge (1998), II 5.7, 5 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Mt. Rainier (14,411 ft.); 81 ascents,    <\/li>\n<li>Disappointment Cleaver (6\/1992), II 40o    <\/li>\n<li>Emmons Glacier, solo (6\/1994), II 35o    <\/li>\n<li>Gibraltar Ledges (4\/1994), II 40o    <\/li>\n<li>Ingraham Direct, winter ascent (2\/1994), II 45o    <\/li>\n<li>Liberty Ridge (5\/1994), IV 50o    <\/li>\n<li>Mowich Face, solo (10\/1998), III 50o    <\/li>\n<li>Nisqually Ice Cliff (4\/1995), III 50o    <\/li>\n<li>Russell Cliffs Var. 1 (6\/1998), III 50o    <\/li>\n<li>Russell Cliffs Var. 2 (6\/1996), III 5.0 50o    <\/li>\n<li>Russell Cliffs Var. 3 (6\/1997), III 60o    <\/li>\n<li>South Tahoma Headwall (7\/1997), IV 55o    <\/li>\n<li>Success Cleaver (6\/1997), III 45o    <\/li>\n<li>Winthrop Glacier (6\/1995), II 40o    <\/li>\n<li>Notable speed ascent (6\/1997): Emmons Glacier &#8211; Camp Schurman to summit: 1h,  56min.; 3h, 5min. r.t.    <\/li>\n<li>Sahale Peak (8,680 ft.), Quien Sabe Glacier (7\/1996)     <\/li>\n<li>Seven Fingered Jack (9,077 ft.), West Route (7\/2007)    <\/li>\n<li>Sharkfin Tower (8,120 ft.), Southeast Ridge (7\/1996), II 5.0, 3 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Sherpa Peak (8,605 ft.),    <\/li>\n<li>North Ridge (7\/1998), IV 5.9, 12 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>West Ridge, solo (9\/2002), II 5.6, 4 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Mt. Shuksan (9,127 ft.), North Face and East Ridge Direct (6\/1994), IV 5.5 50o    <\/li>\n<li>Silver Star Mountain (8,876 ft.), Silver Star Glacier (5\/1994), II class 3 30o    <\/li>\n<li>Mt. Slesse (7,800 ft.), Northeast Buttress (8\/1995), V 5.10, 26 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Snow Creek Wall (3,900 ft.),    <\/li>\n<li>Hyperspace (6\/2010), III 5.11a, 8 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Iconoclast (6\/2005), III 5.10c, 7 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Mary Jane Dihedral (6\/2006), III 5.9, 6 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Orbit (7\/1996), III 5.9, 6 pitches; 6 ascents    <\/li>\n<li>Outer Space (5\/1994), III 5.9, 6 pitches; 8 ascents, 1 winter    <\/li>\n<li>White Slabs (6\/1998), II 5.7, 6 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>South Early Winter Spire (7,807 ft.),    <\/li>\n<li>East Buttress Direct (6\/1995), III+ 5.11a, 8 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>The Hitchhiker (7\/2010), IV 5.11b, 9 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Northwest Face (7\/2006), III 5.11a, 8 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>The Passenger (7\/2010), IV 5.11c, 7 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>South Buttress (6\/2005), III 5.8, 8 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Mt. Spickard (8,879 ft.), East Ridge (7\/1999), II 5.0 50o, 500m    <\/li>\n<li>Mt. Stuart (9,415 ft.),    <\/li>\n<li>Complete North Ridge (6\/1995), V 5.9, 31 pitches, 2 ascents    <\/li>\n<li>Girth Pillar (6\/1998), V 5.10a A1, 20 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Razorback Ridge (8\/1999), IV 5.9, 18 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>West Ridge, solo (9\/2002), III 5.6, 12 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Stuart Range Traverse: 17 miles and eight peaks from Mt. Stuart to McClellan  Peak (9\/2002), 36 hours    <\/li>\n<li>The Talon (4,000 ft.),    <\/li>\n<li>North Face, first ascent (10\/2001), I 5.9, 2 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Southeast Face (4\/2000), I 5.7, 3 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>South Face Direct, first ascent (4\/2001), I 5.10c, 25 m    <\/li>\n<li>Tatoosh Range Traverse, North Ridge of Pinnacle, Castle, Unicorn, and Stevens  peaks (6\/2003), 5.6, 8 hours    <\/li>\n<li>The Tooth (5,604 ft.), South Face (5\/1993), II 5.4, 4 pitches, 4 ascents    <\/li>\n<li>Mt. Triumph (7,270 ft.), Northeast Rige (7\/2010), III 5.6    <\/li>\n<li>Vesper Peak (6,214 ft.), North Face (8\/2009), II+ Class 5    <\/li>\n<li>West McMillan Spire (8,000 ft.), West Ridge (8\/2010)    <\/li>\n<li>Whatcom Peak (7,574 ft.), South Route (8\/2005), II Class 4    <\/li>\n<li>Witches Tower (8,520 ft.), West Ridge (6\/1998), I 5.7, 2 pitches<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Chugach Mountains<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>  Bomber Glacier Traverse, 30 mile alpine and glacial traverse (7\/2002)    <\/li>\n<li>Eklutna Glacier Traverse, 40 mile glacial traverse (7\/2001)    <\/li>\n<li>Hut Peak, West Ridge (7\/2001), II 55o, 400 m    <\/li>\n<li>O&rsquo;Malley Peak to the Wedge ridge traverse, Includes 4 summits, solo (6\/2002),  class 4    <\/li>\n<li>Mt. Ovis, South Ridge, solo (7\/2001), II class 4, 800m    <\/li>\n<li>South Suicide Peak, East Face, first ascent, (12\/2005), IV 80o, 700m,     <\/li>\n<li>Ptarmigan Peak traverse, 7 summits from Flat-Top Mountain to Powerline Pass  Peak, solo (6\/2002), class 4<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Volcanes de M&eacute;xico<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>  Iztacc&iacute;huatl (17,342 ft.), South Ridge (12\/1998)    <\/li>\n<li>La Malinche (14,640 ft.), North Route (12\/1998)    <\/li>\n<li>Pico De Orizaba (18,700 ft.), West Face (12\/1998)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Sierra Nevada<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>  Cathedral Peak (10,911 ft.), Southeast Buttress (8\/2010), III 5.6, 5 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Eichorn Pinnacle (10,680 ft.), North Face (8\/2010), 5.4, 1 pitch    <\/li>\n<li>Mt. Conness (12,649 ft.), West Ridge (8\/2010), III 5.6, 12 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Matthes Crest (10,918 ft.), Traverse from N to S (8\/2010), III 5.7, 8 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Mt. Russell (14,094 ft.), Fishhook Ar&ecirc;te (8\/2010), III 5.9, 8 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Tenaya Peak (10,280 ft.), Northwest Buttress (8\/2010), III 5.5, 14 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Mt. Whitney (14,505 ft.),    <\/li>\n<li>East Buttress (8\/2010), III 5.7, 11 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>East Face (8\/2010), III 5.7, 13 pitches<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Yosemite<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>  El Capit&aacute;n\n<ul>\n<li>Mescalito (9\/1999), VI 5.10 A2+, 25 pitches        <\/li>\n<li>Salath&eacute; (10\/1999), VI 5.12 C2-, 34 pitches        <\/li>\n<li>Tangerine Trip (10\/2000), VI 5.8 C2+, 18 pitches        <\/li>\n<li>Zodiac (10\/1997), VI 5.10 C2+, 16 pitches        <\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<li>Half Dome, Direct Northwest Face (9\/1998), VI 5.10 A2, 22 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Higher Cathedral Rock, Northeast Buttress (9\/2000), IV 5.9, 10 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Higher Cathedral Spire, South Face (9\/2000), III 5.9, 6 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Leaning Tower, West Face (9\/1997), V 5.8 C2-, 10 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Lost Arrow Spire, Direct South Face (10\/1997), VI 5.10 A3, 18 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Lower Cathedral Spire, South Face (9\/2000), III 5.9, 6 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Middle Cathedral Rock,    <\/li>\n<li>Central Pillar (9\/2000), II 5.9, 5 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress (9\/1999), IV 5.10c, 10 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Royal Arches, Regular Route (9\/2000), III 5.7, 12 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Washington Column, The Prow (9\/1997), V 5.8 C2, 12 pitches<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>  Southwest U.S.: Desert Towers, Bigwalls, and Routes<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>Arches National Park<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>  Argon Tower, West Face (4\/2008), II 5.11, 3 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Dark Angel, West Face (10\/2009), I 5.10+, 2 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Off-Balanced Rock, North Chimney (3\/2007), I 5.6, 2 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Owl Rock, Olevsky Route (3\/2007), I 5.9, 2 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>The Three Gossips, West Face (4\/2008), III 5.11, 3 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>The Three Penguins, Right Chimney (10\/2009), II 5.10c, 2 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Tower of Babel, Zenyatta Entrada (10\/2009), IV 5.8 C3, 6 pitches<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Canyonlands National Park<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>  Blocktop, Original Route (4\/2008), IV 5.10 C2, 5 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Charlie Horse Needle, North Face (10\/2009), III 5.11c, 3 pitches     <\/li>\n<li>Chip Tower, Stuffin&rsquo; Nuts (4\/2008), III 5.8 C1, 4 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Dale Tower, Boy&rsquo;s Night Out (4\/2008), III 5.9 C1, 3 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Enigmatic Syringe, Altered Sanity (4\/2008), III C3, 2 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Islet in the Sky, Original Route (10.2009), IV 5.10 C3, 6 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Meemohive (4\/2008), III 5.9 C2, 4 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>The Mock Turtle, Mud Wrestling (10\/2009), IV 5.10+, 5 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Monster Tower, Kor Route (4\/2008), IV 5.10 C2, 7 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Moses, Primrose Dihedrals (3\/2007), IV 5.11d, 7 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>The Pixie Stick, West Face (10\/2009), III C3, 2 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Shark&rsquo;s Fin, Fetish Ar&ecirc;te (4\/2008), III 5.10+ R, 5 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Standing Rock, Kor Route (4\/2008), III 5.11, 4 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Tiki Tower, Brave Little Toaster (10\/2009), III 5.9 C1, 3 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Washer Woman, In Search of Suds (4\/2008), III 5.10+, 5 pitches<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Castle Valley<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>  Castleton Tower, Kor-Ingalls Route (3\/2007), III 5.9, 4 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Castleton Tower, North Chimney (3\/2007), III 5.9, 4 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Crooked Arrow Spire,(10\/2009), III 5.8 C1, 2 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>The Nuns, Bad Habit (4\/2008), II 5.11c, 3 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>The Priest, Honeymoon Chimney (4\/2008), III 5.11, 4 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>The Rectory, Fine Jade (3\/2007), III 5.11a, 4 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Sister Superior, Jah Man (3\/2007), III 5.10c, 4 pitches<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Colorado National Monument<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>  Independence Monument, Otto&rsquo;s Route (3\/2008), III 5.9, 6 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Sentinel Spire, Fast Draw (10\/2009), II 5.10, 3 pitches<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Comb Ridge<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>  Prayer Stick, Magic Man (10\/2009),  III 5.10+, 4 pitches<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Dragoon Mountains<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>  Cochise Dome, What&rsquo;s My Line  (1\/2002), II 5.6, 3 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>The Wasteland Pinnacle, Wasteland (1\/2002), II 5.8, 6 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Whale Dome, Moby Dick (1\/2002), III 5.8, 6 pitches<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Fisher Towers<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>  Ancient Art, Corkscrew Route (3\/2007), II 5.10d, 4 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Boxtop, North Face (10\/2009), I 5.10, 1 pitch    <\/li>\n<li>The Cobra (3\/2007), 5.11 R, 1 pitch, 2 ascents    <\/li>\n<li>Echo Tower, Phantom Spirit (10\/2009), IV 5.9 C2+, 6 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Kingfisher, Colorado Northeast Buttress (3\/2007), IV 5.8 C2, 5 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Lizard Spire, Entrance Fee (3\/2007), I 5.8, 1 pitch    <\/li>\n<li>River Tower, North Face (10\/2009), III 5.8 C2, 3 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>The Titan, Finger of Fate, solo (4\/2008), IV 5.9 C2, 10 pitches<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Indian Creek<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>  Easter Island Tower (4\/2008), II 5.10, 2 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>King of Pain, Vision Quest (4\/2008), III 5.10+, 4 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>North Six Shooter, Lightning Bolt Cracks (4\/2008), III 5.11a, 2 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>South Six Shooter, South Face (3\/2008), II 5.8, 3 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Sparkling Touch Tower (4\/2008), 5.11-, 2 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Sunflower Tower, East Face (4\/2008), III 5.10, 3 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Thumbelina Tower, Learning to Crawl (4\/2008), 5.11, 1 pitch<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Mexican Hat<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>  Mexican Hat, Bandito Route (10\/2009), I C1, 1 pitch<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Mill and Tusher Canyons<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>  Echo Pinnacle, Window Route (4\/2008), III 5.11a, 3 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>The House of Putterman, Walden&rsquo;s Room (4\/2008), II 5.10+, 4 pitches<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Onion Creek<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>  The Hindu, Maverick (10\/2009), III 5.8 C2, 4 pitches<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Red Rocks<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>  Black Orpheus (3\/2005), III 5.10a, 10 pitches     <\/li>\n<li>Cat in the Hat Buttress (3\/2002), II 5.6, 6 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Crimson Chrysalis (3\/2003), III 5.8, 8 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Eagle Dance (3\/2008), IV 5.10c A0, 9 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Epinephrine (3\/2002), IV 5.9, 18 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Frogland (3\/2008), III 5.8, 7 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Geronimo (3\/2003), II 5.7, 6 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Johnny Vegas (3\/2005), II, 5.7, 4 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Levitation 29 (4\/2003), IV 5.11c, 7 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Olive Oil (3\/2005), II 5.7, 6 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>The Prince of Darkness (4\/2003), III 5.10c, 6 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Solar Slab (3\/2005), III 5.7, 8 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Sour Mash (3\/2008), III 5.10a, 5 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Yellow Brick Road (3\/2008), III 5.10c, 6 pitches<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>River Road (Moab)<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>  Dolomite Spire, Kor Route (10\/2009), III 5.9 C2, 4 pitches    Lighthouse Tower, Lonely Vigil (10\/2009), II 5.10- R, 4 pitches<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Superstition Mountains<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>  Grandfather Hobgoblin, (3\/2008), III 5.9, 4 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>The Hand, Razor&rsquo;s Edge, (3\/2008), II 5.6, 3 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>The North Buttress, Spider Walk (3\/2008), III 5.6 R, 4 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>The Periscope, (3\/2008) 5.4 R, 1 pitch    <\/li>\n<li>The Pickle, (3\/2008) 5.4 R, 1 pitch    <\/li>\n<li>The Prong, (3\/2008) 5.6, 2 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>The Tower, (3\/2008), II 5.8 R, 2 pitches<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Valley of the Gods<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>  Eagle Plume Tower, South Face (10\/2009), III 5.10, 4 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Petard Tower, Hurley-Rearick Route (10\/2009), II 5.9 C1, 3 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Putterman in a Bathtub, It&#8217;s a Mad, Mad, Mad, Mad Putterman (10\/2009), II 5.9  C1, 2 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Putterman on the Throne, Supercalifragilisticexpialiputterman (10\/2009), III  5.9 C1, 3 pitches<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Zion National Park<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>  Angels Landing,    <\/li>\n<li>Lowe Route (4\/2002), V 5.10 C2+, 14 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Prodigal Sun, solo (4\/2003), IV 5.8 C1, 10 pitches; 3 ascents    <\/li>\n<li>Cerebus Gendarme, Touchstone (4\/2002), IV 5.10 C1, 8 pitches, 2 ascents    <\/li>\n<li>Desert Shield Buttress, Desert Shield (4\/2002), V 5.11a C3, 10 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Fang Wall, Fang Spire (5\/2002), IV 5.9 C3, 7 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Leaning Wall, Space Shot (4\/2002), IV 5.10 C1, 8 pitches; 2 ascents    <\/li>\n<li>The Minotaur, Megamahedral (5\/2002), III 5.10+, 6 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Moonlight Buttress area,    <\/li>\n<li>Lunar Ecstasy (4\/2002), V 5.10 C2+, 11 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Moonlight Buttress, solo (4\/2003), V 5.10 C1, 11 pitches; 3 ascents    <\/li>\n<li>Sheer Lunacy (4\/2002), V 5.10 C2, 9 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Muralla del Sol, Beyond the Pale (4\/2002), VI 5.11a C3, 12 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>The Organ,    <\/li>\n<li>Organasm (4\/2002), III 5.8 C2, 4 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>The Organ, Organ Grinder (4\/2002), II 5.9+, 2 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>The Pulpit, Normal Route (3\/2008), I 5.9 A0, 2 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Spearhead Mountain, Iron Messiah (3\/2008), III 5.10c, 10 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Swoop Gimp Wall, Swoop Gimp, (4\/2002), IV 5.10 C2+, 10 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Temple of Sinawava, Monkey Finger (4\/2002), III 5.10 C1, 9 pitches<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Notable speed ascents<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>  Space Shot, Moonlight Buttress, and Prodigal Sun: 15 hours, 28 minutes car to  car (4\/2002).    <\/li>\n<li>Prodigal Sun, solo ascent: 7 hours, 15 minutes (4\/2003)    <\/li>\n<li>Moonlight Buttress, solo ascent: 6 hours, 32 minutes (4\/2003)    <\/li>\n<li>The Titan, Finger of Fate, solo onsight ascent: 8 hours, 53 minutes (4\/2008)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p align=\"center\"><strong>North American Ice Routes<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>Alaska<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>  Eklutna,    <\/li>\n<li>Mad Dog (3\/2002), II WI 4, 20m    <\/li>\n<li>Boonesfarm (3\/1998), II WI 3, 60m, 2 ascents    <\/li>\n<li>Ripple (3\/1998), II WI 3, 65m, 2 ascents    <\/li>\n<li>Valdez,    <\/li>\n<li>Bridalveil Falls (3\/2006), V WI 5, 600&#8242;    <\/li>\n<li>Keystone Greensteps (3\/2006), V WI 5, 650&#8242;, 2 ascents<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Canadian Rockies<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>  Bison Falls (2\/2003), III WI 3, 80 m    <\/li>\n<li>Carlsberg Column (2\/2004), III WI 5, 90 m    <\/li>\n<li>Cascade (11\/2003), III WI 3, 300 m    <\/li>\n<li>Cool Spring (2\/2003), III WI 5+, 35 m    <\/li>\n<li>Curtain Call (2\/2004), IV WI 6, 125 m    <\/li>\n<li>Gibraltar Wall (3\/2003), II WI 4, 145 m    <\/li>\n<li>Hydrophobia (one day link-up with Sorcerer) (2\/2004), IV WI 5+, 150 m     <\/li>\n<li>Ice Nine (2\/2004), IV WI 6, 95 m    <\/li>\n<li>Lady Wilson&#8217;s Cleavage, solo (11\/2003), III WI 3, 300 m    <\/li>\n<li>Louise Falls (2\/2003), II WI 4+, 110 m    <\/li>\n<li>Malignant Mushroom (2\/2003), II WI 5, 55 m    <\/li>\n<li>Massey&rsquo;s (2\/2003), III, WI 4, 140 m    <\/li>\n<li>Merchison Falls (2\/2003), III WI 4+, 180 m    <\/li>\n<li>N&rsquo;ice Baby (2\/2004), IV WI 5, 110 m    <\/li>\n<li>Oh Le Tabernac (2\/2004), III WI 5+, 55 m     <\/li>\n<li>Polar Circus (2\/2003), V WI 5, 700 m    <\/li>\n<li>Professor Falls (2\/2003), III WI 4, 280 m    <\/li>\n<li>Red Man Soars (2\/2007), IV WI 4 5.10    <\/li>\n<li>Snow Line (3\/2003), III WI 4, 100 m    <\/li>\n<li>Sunshine Falls (2\/2007), WI 3, 45m    <\/li>\n<li>The Sorcerer (2\/2003), IV WI 5, 185 m, 2 ascents    <\/li>\n<li>This House of Sky, solo (11\/2003), III WI 3, 500 m    <\/li>\n<li>Transparent Fool (2\/2003), IV WI 5, 45 m    <\/li>\n<li>Weathering Heights (2\/2003), III WI 4, 100 m    <\/li>\n<li>Weeping Wall (2\/2003), II WI 4, 160 m    <\/li>\n<li>Whiteman Falls (2\/2007), IV WI 6    <\/li>\n<li>Wicked Wanda (2\/2003), II WI 4+, 80 m<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Cody, Wyoming<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Mean Green with top WI6 variation  (2\/2008), IV WI6, 7 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Broken Hearts, through 6th pitch (2\/2008), IV WI 6, 6 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>High on Boulder and Pillar of Pain (2\/2008), IV WI 5, 5 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Moonrise (2\/2008), III WI 5, 3 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Dressed to Kill (2\/2008), III WI 5, 1 pitch    <\/li>\n<li>Ovisight (2\/2008), IV WI 6, 4 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>The Moratorium (2\/2008), III WI 4, 2 pitches<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>  Lillooet<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>  Icy BC (2\/2000), II WI 5, 3 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Night N&rsquo; Gale (2\/2000), III WI 4, 5 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Salmon Stakes (2\/2000), III WI 3, 5 pitches<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>  Washington State<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>  The Cable (2\/2006), WI 6, 1 pitch    <\/li>\n<li>Champagne (2\/2006), WI 5, 2 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Children of the Sun (1\/2005), WI 5, 1 pitch    <\/li>\n<li>Drury Falls (2\/2006), IV WI5, 5 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>The Pencil (2\/2006), WI 5, 3 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Salt and Pepper (2\/2006), 5.6, WI 5, 3 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>The Sundance Kid (1\/2005), WI 5, 1 pitch    <\/li>\n<li>Tea in the Sahara (1\/2007), WI 5, 2 pitches<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>  Utah<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>  Stairway to Heaven (1\/2008), WI5, 6 pitches<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p align=\"center\"><strong>Africa<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Mt. Kilimanjaro (5,885 m), Machame  Route (2\/2009)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p align=\"center\"><strong>Asia<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>China<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>  Camel Peak (5,484 m), South Glacier Route (10\/2005)    <\/li>\n<li>Mt. Daogou (5,465 m), Salvage Op., first peak ascent (10\/2005), V 5.10d    <\/li>\n<li>Lara Shan (5,700 m), American Standard, first peak ascent (4\/2007), IV  70-degree ice    <\/li>\n<li>Peak 5,965 meters, Inglis-Puryear route, first peak ascent (10\/2007), V 5.7  65-degree ice    <\/li>\n<li>The Angry Wife (5,020 m) ,Raindog Ar&ecirc;te, first peak ascent (10\/2005), IV 5.10c<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Nepal<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>  Jobo Rinjang (6,778 m), South Face, first peak ascent (4\/2009)    <\/li>\n<li>Kang Nachugo (6,735 m), South Face to West Ridge, first peak ascent (10\/2008)    <\/li>\n<li>Kyajo Ri (6,168m), Southwest Ridge (4\/2009)    <\/li>\n<li>Parchamo (6,273 m), North Ridge (10\/2008)    <\/li>\n<li>Peak 5,766 meters, South Ridge (10\/2008)    <\/li>\n<li>Peak 5,050 meters, West Face (10\/2008)    <\/li>\n<li>Ramdung (5,925 m), Ramdung Glacier route (10\/2008)    <\/li>\n<li>Takargo (6,771 m), East Face, first peak ascent, winter ascent (3\/12\/2010)    <\/li>\n<li>Yalong Ri (5,630 m), East Face (10\/2008)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Nepal Ice Routes<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>  Beyul, first ascent (2\/2010), WI4, 700 meters    <\/li>\n<li>Broken Thumb, first ascent (2\/2010), WI6, 2 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Cousin-Brother Left, first ascent (2\/2010), WI 4, 3 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Cousin-Brother Middle, first ascent (2\/2010), WI 5, 2 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Cousin-Brother Right, first ascent (2\/2010), WI3, 1 pitch    <\/li>\n<li>The Gateway, first ascent (2\/2010), WI4, 2 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Nemari Left, first ascent (2\/2010), WI5+, 4 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Nemari Right, first ascent (2\/2010), WI5, 5 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>NMIA Left (2\/2010), WI4, 3 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>NMIA Right, first ascent (2\/2010), WI5, 2pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Pagaga Falls, first ascent (2\/2010), WI4, 4 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Sneaky Pinky, first ascent (2\/2010), WI4, 2 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>The Swath, first ascent (2\/2010), WI3, 3 pitches<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p align=\"center\"><strong>Europa<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>Alpes<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>  Blumlisalphorn (3664 m), North Wall (8\/2002), D 55o, 700 m    <\/li>\n<li>Buufal, Farfallina (8\/2002), 6b, 7 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Diemtigtal, Syndrom (9\/2009), 6a+, 5 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Eiger (3,970 m), Mittellegi Ridge (8\/2002), D 5.6, 800 m    <\/li>\n<li>Engelhorner, Klein Simelistock, Gagelfanger (8\/2002), 6b+, 15 pitches,    <\/li>\n<li>Graue Wand, Conquest (8\/2002), VIII (5.11d), 8 pitches,    <\/li>\n<li>Hintesberg, Escalera (9\/2009), 6a, 6 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Klein Bielenhorn Sudwand,    <\/li>\n<li>Hagar der Schreckliche, 6c, 4 pitches,    <\/li>\n<li>Novembertroeumli, 6b+, 8 pitches,    <\/li>\n<li>Lobh&ouml;rner, (2,566 m), Herbstzyt E-W (9\/2009), 5c+, 7 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Meniggrund Pfeiler, Thuner Weg (9\/2009), 5c+, 8 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Monch (4,107 m), Northwest Ridge, Nollen Route (8\/2002), D 60o, 1800 m    <\/li>\n<li>Tscharrenfluh Einstieg, Trans Sibiria (8\/2002), 6a+, 6 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Wissenflue,    <\/li>\n<li>Crescendo (9\/2009), 6b+, 3 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Stark mit Quark (9\/2009), 6a+, 3 pitches    <\/li>\n<li>Wendenstock, Aureus (8\/2002), 6c R, 10 pitches<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p align=\"center\"><strong>America del Sur<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>Andes<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Aconcagua (22,841 ft.), Normal Route  (1\/1997), PD, 2700 m    <\/li>\n<li>Alpamayo (19,511 ft.), Southwest Face (7\/2003), AD+, 650 m    <\/li>\n<li>Artesonraju (19,767 ft.), Southeast Face (7\/2003), D, 800 m    <\/li>\n<li>Huascaran (22,205 ft.), Garganta Route (7\/2003), PD, 3500 m    <\/li>\n<li>Ishinca (18,143 ft.), Northeast Ridge (6\/2003), F, 500 m    <\/li>\n<li>Tocllaraju (19,797 ft.), Northwest Ridge (6\/2003), AD-, 700 m    <\/li>\n<li>Urus Este (17,782 ft.), Southeast Ridge (6\/2003), PD-, 800 m<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Patagonia<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Guillamet (8,460 ft.),    <\/li>\n<li>Amy Couloir (1\/2001), IV 5.6 65o, 300 m    <\/li>\n<li>Northeast Buttress (2\/2001), IV 5.10d, 300 m<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Otras areas escaladas<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Seward Highway, Alaska     <\/li>\n<li>Cochise Stronghold, Arizona: cragging routes (plus see above)    <\/li>\n<li>Granite Dells, Arizona    <\/li>\n<li>Joshua Tree National Park, California: 100+ routes    <\/li>\n<li>Yosemite, California: 50+ cragging and multi pitch routes (plus see above)    <\/li>\n<li>City of Rocks, Idaho    <\/li>\n<li>Red Rocks, Nevada: 50+ cragging routes (plus see above)    <\/li>\n<li>Smith Rocks, Oregon: 50+ routes    <\/li>\n<li>Potash Road\/Kane Creek, Moab, Utah    <\/li>\n<li>Zion National Park, Utah: cragging routes (plus see above)    <\/li>\n<li>Frenchman Coulee, Washington: 150+ routes    <\/li>\n<li>Leavenworth, Washington: 150+ cragging and multi pitch routes    <\/li>\n<li>Little Si, Washington    <\/li>\n<li>Index, Washington: 50+ cragging and multi pitch routes (plus see above)    <\/li>\n<li>Mazama, Washington    <\/li>\n<li>The Tieton, Washington: 100+ cragging routes (plus see above)    <\/li>\n<li>Bear Spirit Crag, British Columbia, Canada    <\/li>\n<li>Haffner Creek, British Columbia, Canada    <\/li>\n<li>Squamish, British Columbia, Canada    <\/li>\n<li>Biji, Switzerland    <\/li>\n<li>Lammi, Switzerland    <\/li>\n<li>Lehn, Switzerland    <\/li>\n<li>Harder, Switzerland    <\/li>\n<li>Schilingsflue, Switzerland    <\/li>\n<li>Stadenflue, Switzerland    <\/li>\n<li>Wilderswil, Switzerland    <\/li>\n<li>Railay Beach, Thailand<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<table width=\"100%\" cellspacing=\"2\" cellpadding=\"2\" border=\"0\" summary=\"\">\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"329\">\n<p align=\"justify\">El pasado 27 de octubre falleci&oacute; Joe Puryear, uno de los mejores monta&ntilde;istas estadounidenses, quien se hab&iacute;a dedicado a hacer monta&ntilde;ismo de exploraci&oacute;n en todas las cordilleras del mundo, especialmente en Nepal.<\/p>\n<\/td>\n<td width=\"129\">\n<div align=\"center\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" width=\"110\" height=\"100\" align=\"center\" alt=\"\" src=\"http:\/\/montanismo.org\/images\/upload\/k_3166-joepuryear.jpg\" \/><\/div>\n<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<p> <a href=\"http:\/\/montanismo.org\/2010\/adios_a_joe_puryear\/\"><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1333,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":""},"categories":[1015],"tags":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p51GhY-3Ih","_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/montanismo.org\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14277"}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/montanismo.org\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/montanismo.org\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/montanismo.org\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1333"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/montanismo.org\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=14277"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"http:\/\/montanismo.org\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14277\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":17804,"href":"http:\/\/montanismo.org\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14277\/revisions\/17804"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/montanismo.org\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=14277"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/montanismo.org\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=14277"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/montanismo.org\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=14277"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}<!-- html is corrupted -->